Ulan Ude - last stop in Russia

Ulan Ude is the capital of the Buryat Republic, and the centre of Buddhism in Russia. It was a real highlight for us all, lovely friendly people. There was a very relaxed atmosphere to the city. On arriving Fitz and I were sitting on all the bags whilst Dave and Jim went searching for somewhere to stay.

Two or three people came up to ask us where we were from, just so intrigued by our presence in the city, and were very helpful offering to show us where things were. It was very refreshing after Irkutsk. Also very hot! The city is renowned for having the largest Lenin head statue in Russia. It sits on the main square, looks pretty ridiculous. It's enormous.

Only a fifth of the current population are actually Buryats, but it's believed that the head was put there as a form of revenge after they resisted Sovietization. However they say they got the last laugh as Lenins eyes appear slightly Asian. On that note since we passed the Europe-Asia marker at Yekaterinburg it's amazing how the locals appear noticeably more Asian. Of course it makes sense but within one country it's interesting to see the transition.



The lads successfully found what we reckon to be student accomodation. 10euro a night - perfect. The only things of interest to do in Ulan Ude are to stare at Lenins head and visit the Tibetan Buddhist Monastery, the Ivolginsky Datsan, which is 35km outside the city.

Day 1 we saw Lenin's monstrous head. Day 2 the buddhist monastery; no need to over exert oursleves! Such monasteries were in abundance before Stalin but almost all were closed by him and the monks sent to gulags back in the 1930's. Later in the 40's when Stalin sanctioned greater religious tolerance this site was selected to build a new monastery. And now it is the centre of Russian Buddhism. It stands on a large plain outside the city. Beautifully painted temples, and stupas. We walked clockwise around it as is custom with all Buddhist temples and objects. I spotted two monks on mobiles which would have made a great picture but not very appropriate timing methinks! Students from all over the region come to study Buddhism here.



In the evenings there was almost a Mediterranean feel to the town, we sat on terraces drinking beers, lots of people around, lively atmosphere. The food wasn't bad either. We managed one or two decent meals. We found an old Soviet style canteen where you take a tray and join the queue, worked perfect for us, you just point at what you want, and everything was really cheap. It was a bit like a boarding school canteen, but full of people having lunch and going about their day. It was in the basement of the back of a building, odd little spot not like anything we have at home.

Ul Lenina (yet another city centre street named after the man himself) is the pedestrianised high street, and we found an Irish bar (Russian owned, and virginal to Irish punters - my how special we felt). Had a vodka platter, or was it two, and met a Canadian woman and British guy over working for Land Rover - tough life organising sponsored rallies throughout Asia and beyond. Off to bed looking forward to stage 2 of our own wee rally into Mongolia.

"Russia - best of luck with that"

S.